Government announcement today that we should stock up on food etc

Not sure if this counts, and it adds on to Roy 's post about hoarding. At a conservative estimate i have maybe 300 unbuiilt scale aeroplane kits, glue/paints etc. stashed away.  If ever extreme conditions call upon me to be closeted away with glue and paint fumes, endless podcasts and the joy of tiny models I'm well sorted!  So what about the niche must have special interest stuff good people?  I would add that my more practical suggestion would relate to transport - I've bicycles and spares stashed for that (I live on top of a hill so I haven't factored in a canoe, hmmmm.... yet)  and naturally a basic selection of tools - even if it's just gaffer tape and a screwdriver!... 

Are these airtime models? If so I've always wondered why people use tubes of glue and ni plastic cerment I know airtime figures are like a rubery plastic so they need special paint primers and if you put them on plastic bases you need glue but I assume the planes are just made out of standard sprue plastic right? 

And I find plastic cement works better than glue as it melts it I not one piece rather than making a bond 

The next models I will be making is a plastic wild West gallow with a executioner two condemned men and a guy reading out the crimes

And a wooden wild West gallows to go with the same models nit made of metal (oh how I hate painting metal with it being non pourud as opposed titplastic 

I should really start priming bur right now in focusing on getting good at painting and priming is an extra step I'd rather learn later 

So far I can apply a decent base coat and later Coats and washes but I'm only just starting to get to grips with highlights and can only so them to w good level. If I decide the light worse is head on I. E from the exact left or front so it's 50% light 50% dark I should properly try shadows next too 

Oh I'm getting there with dry brushing too slowly and I'm tempted to only use games workshop. Paints for washes going forward as their base paints ect dry up too easy due to poor pot design and also are harder to water down due to not being a dropper bottle 

Are these airtime models? If so I've always wondered why people use tubes of glue and ni plastic cerment I know airtime figures are like a rubery plastic so they need special paint primers and if you put them on plastic bases you need glue but I assume the planes are just made out of standard sprue plastic right? 

And I find plastic cement works better than glue as it melts it I not one piece rather than making a bond 

The next models I will be making is a plastic wild West gallow with a executioner two condemned men and a guy reading out the crimes

And a wooden wild West gallows to go with the same models nit made of metal (oh how I hate painting metal with it being non pourud as opposed titplastic 

I should really start priming bur right now in focusing on getting good at painting and priming is an extra step I'd rather learn later 

So far I can apply a decent base coat and later Coats and washes but I'm only just starting to get to grips with highlights and can only so them to w good level. If I decide the light worse is head on I. E from the exact left or front so it's 50% light 50% dark I should properly try shadows next too 

Oh I'm getting there with dry brushing too slowly and I'm tempted to only use games workshop. Paints for washes going forward as their base paints ect dry up too easy due to poor pot design and also are harder to water down due to not being a dropper bottle 

BTW airtime wa say to correct I typed airfix lol 

I will post. Pics in small categorised catches of a small amount  of my models they're all very much work in progress some just need details put in some. Need major base or wash/highlight touch ups ect shy I'll start with my wild West ones

hi Thpsguy 

Yes the models I build are mostly polystyrene plastic from injection moulding - and you're correct the glue melts and then rebonds the plastic - although different types of glue come in handy for different circumstances.

That gallows scene is very dramatic!

Priming helps a lot I find.  I painted a lot of "dungeons and dragons" white metal figures using enamel paints when younger and you're right that a good primer helps with adhesion to the surface that is being painted.   I understand that if you don't want to prime to start with tho'.

For plastic ones, washing them in detergent with a gentle tooth-brushing before painting is a good idea as the moulds often have a "release agent" in them when they are made that stops paint adhering unless it is washed off.

My wife mentioned to me this morning that she is preparing a canvas for oil painting.  This requires 8 coats of white "gesso" before painting "proper" even begins!

Maybe a quick and careful LIGHT spray application of primer (careful not to breathe it in and make sure it doesn't go everywhere!) might be a way to explore it.  If you get too much off it'll wash off with a brush and likely water if you're using water based paints and one can always practice to get the result wanted.

Washes are great for adding depth and shadows - interestingly not just black...  and yes dry brushing is excellent for picking out highlights.

For the most recent figures I painted I airbrushed (a way of getting a very fine controlled spray) black primer from underneath the figure and then white primer from above to "preshade" before brush painting the colour.  (the preshading shows thro' the "thinner" colours painted on top

Sorry if I'm showing off - the picture attached is of a figure about 2cm tall - hehe shows what 55 years of practice can do maybe!

hehe I hope that if a temporary disaster strikes model building and painting will help get us thro' it!

Best Wishes